Backup Generator Plan – Garage & House Integration
Overview
This document outlines the plan for integrating backup generator capability at the garage to supply power for both the garage and house during utility outages.
Current Plan: Start with portable tri-fuel generator (Predator 11,500W inverter or similar)
- Lower initial cost (~$1,500-2,600 total)
- Manual interlock for safe operation
- Natural gas connection for unlimited runtime
- Tri-fuel flexibility (gasoline, propane, natural gas)
Future Option: Upgrade to permanent standby generator (Generac, Kohler, or other reputable brand)
- May upgrade in future years (or may not - portable may meet all needs)
- Electrical infrastructure designed to support both portable and permanent
- Upgrade process: Replace manual interlock with automatic transfer switch (ATS)
- Estimated future cost: ~$6,000-12,000 for permanent standby installation
Design Goal: Install electrical infrastructure NOW (during garage electrical service) that supports BOTH portable use and future permanent upgrade, avoiding expensive rework later.
Generator Selection
Model: Predator 11,500 Watt Tri-Fuel Super Quiet Inverter Generator (Harbor Freight #72614)
Fuel Types: Gasoline, Propane, Natural Gas
Output (Gasoline): 11,500 starting / 9,200 running watts
Output (Propane): 10,400 starting / 8,300 running watts
Output (Natural Gas): 9,500 starting / 7,600 running watts (≈ 32 A @ 240 V)
Connection: ½″ NPT natural gas inlet with 25′ quick-connect hose
Power Quality: Inverter output (<5% THD) for sensitive electronics
Startup: Electric + remote start with CO Secure automatic shutdown
Use Case: Provide quieter, clean backup power for both garage and house while remaining future-upgradeable
To Do: Confirm the published wattage/consumption figures in the operating manual once the generator is purchased; update this section if Harbor Freight revises specs.
Electrical Design
Critical Decision: Interlock Location
IMPORTANT: The location of the manual interlock determines what the generator can power during outages.
Option A: Interlock at House Main Panel (Recommended)
Configuration:
- Generator Inlet: House exterior wall (near service entrance)
- Manual Interlock: House 200A main panel
- Generator Location: At garage (connected via 50A power cord to house inlet during outages)
What It Powers:
- Entire property - both house AND garage
- House critical loads: furnace, A/C (with soft-start), refrigerator, well pump, sump pump, lights, outlets
- Garage automatically receives power through existing 100A subpanel connection
Advantages:
- Most useful configuration for whole-property emergency preparedness
- Protects house critical loads (furnace, refrigerator, etc.) during outages
- Garage gets power automatically (no separate switching)
- Generator can be stored at garage with natural gas connection
- Better return on investment for emergency preparedness
Implementation:
- Option 1: Run 50A power cord (~60-80 feet) from garage to house inlet during outages
- Option 2: Install permanent 50A feeder circuit from garage to house inlet location
Option B: Interlock at Garage Subpanel
Configuration:
- Generator Inlet: Garage exterior wall
- Manual Interlock: Garage 200A subpanel
- Generator Location: At garage
What It Powers:
- Garage only - house remains without power
- Garage loads: lights, outlets, car lift, air compressor, tools, mini-split (if enabled)
Advantages:
- Simpler installation (everything at one location)
- Generator at point of use (no power cord needed)
- Direct connection
Disadvantages:
- House gets no backup power during outages
- Doesn’t help with house furnace, refrigerator, well pump, etc.
- Less useful for whole-property emergency preparedness
- Lower value for emergency preparedness investment
Current Recommendation
Option A (house interlock) is recommended because:
- Powers critical house loads (furnace, refrigerator, etc.) during outages
- Garage receives power automatically through existing subpanel connection
- Better emergency preparedness for the entire property
- Generator can still be stored at garage with natural gas connection
- Higher value return on the generator investment
Decision Point: Electrician quotes will include costs for both options to allow informed decision.
System Components
- Generator Inlet Box:
- 50 A / 240 V inlet (e.g., Reliance Controls PB50)
- Weatherproof, twist-lock (NEMA 14-50)
- Location: House exterior (Option A) OR Garage exterior (Option B)
- Manual Interlock Kit:
- Prevents utility and generator breakers from being ON simultaneously
- Eliminates backfeed hazard to utility grid
- Location: House 200A panel (Option A) OR Garage 200A panel (Option B)
- Future-upgradeable to automatic transfer switch (ATS)
- Feeder Wiring:
- 4-wire feeder (Hot A, Hot B, Neutral, Ground)
- Sized to handle 50 A load (6 AWG copper minimum)
- Option A may include permanent feeder from garage to house inlet OR use portable power cord
- Conduit (if permanent feeder):
- 1¼″ PVC Sch 40 (minimum) for future expandability
Operating Procedure (Option A - House Interlock)
- Move generator outdoors to designated position (~20 ft from garage, outlet panel facing East/downwind — see Storm Deployment Positioning Site Preparation)
- Connect natural-gas hose to exterior quick-connect at garage
- Start generator (remote/electric start)
- Run 50A power cord from generator to house inlet (OR if permanent feeder: plug into garage outlet)
- At house panel: Switch interlock to generator mode
- Generator now powers entire property (house + garage)
- Monitor loads using CT-based monitor (Emporia Vue / Home Assistant)
- When utility power returns:
- Return interlock to utility mode
- Shut down generator
- Disconnect power cord
Operating Procedure (Option B - Garage Interlock)
- Move generator outdoors to designated position (~20 ft from garage, outlet panel facing East/downwind — see Storm Deployment Positioning Site Preparation)
- Plug generator cord into 50 A inlet at garage
- Connect natural-gas hose to exterior quick-connect at garage
- Start generator (remote/electric start)
- At garage panel: Switch interlock to generator mode
- Generator now powers garage only (house remains unpowered)
- When utility power returns:
- Return interlock to utility mode
- Shut down generator
Bridging the Power Gap with UPS
The Manual Generator Gap (10-60 Minutes)
With a portable generator and manual interlock, power restoration is not automatic. When power goes out, someone must physically go to the garage, haul the generator outside, connect gas and power, start it, and switch the interlock at the house panel. Depending on conditions (time of day, weather, snow), this process takes 10-60 minutes.
| Scenario | Estimated Time |
|---|---|
| Best case (daytime, good weather) | 10-15 min |
| Typical case (nighttime, mild weather) | 20-30 min |
| Worst case (winter night, heavy snow, extreme cold) | 30-60+ min |
During this gap: All power is lost to the entire property. Computers crash, 3D prints fail, network goes offline, security cameras stop recording, HVAC shuts down.
Future upgrade: A permanent standby generator with ATS would reduce this gap to 10-20 seconds automatically. The UPS strategy is designed to work with both the current manual setup and a future ATS upgrade.
UPS Solution: Critical Circuit Protection
Strategy: UPS units provide instant battery backup to keep critical electronics running while you manually start the generator — or gracefully shut everything down if the generator can’t be started.
Two approaches:
- Garage: Centralized 3000VA rack-mount UPS in mechanical room feeding dedicated orange outlets at key locations (server rack, 3D printer, workbench). Single unit, Home Assistant monitored, automated load shedding and graceful shutdown.
- House: Individual UPS units at critical locations (office, network closet, entertainment center). Plug-and-play, no new wiring needed. Sized for graceful PC/device shutdown rather than full ride-through.
Deployment:
- Garage (centralized): 3000VA rack-mount UPS ($1,100-1,500) → orange outlet circuit to 3-4 locations. With smart load shedding (printer paused at 2 min), provides 30-60 min runtime for server and network.
- Home office: 1500VA UPS (259) — Desktop PC graceful shutdown within 10 min on battery
- Network closet: 1000-1500VA UPS (229) — Router, modem, switch stay up 20-40 min (low draw)
- Entertainment center: 1000VA UPS (169) — TV, NVIDIA Shield get clean shutdown instead of hard power cut
How It Works:
- UPS provides instant battery backup (2-10 millisecond switchover)
- Home Assistant monitors UPS via NUT, sends push notifications to your phone
- Smart automations pause 3D printer within 2 minutes (protects print + sheds load)
- Non-essential devices shut down at 5 minutes, extending runtime for server/network
- If generator is started within the battery window, devices seamlessly return to utility power
- If generator can’t be started, all devices shut down gracefully — no data loss, no equipment damage
See: Critical Circuit UPS Strategy for complete UPS deployment guide, sizing recommendations, automation design, and specific product recommendations.
Natural Gas Connection
Dedicated Exterior Gas Port
Layout:
Mechanical room gas tee (branch from garage main)
↓
Ball valve #1 — interior master isolation (mechanical room)
↓
Pipe through exterior wall (sleeved, sealed)
↓
Ball valve #2 — exterior operational shutoff (near port)
↓
Quick-connect fitting (with integral safety check valve)
↓
25′ generator hose → Predator ½″ NPT gas inlet
Components:
| Component | Purpose | Location |
|---|---|---|
| Ball valve #1 (interior) | Master isolation for entire generator gas branch. Used for seasonal shutdown, winterization, and maintenance/leak testing of exterior piping. Required per IRC G2420.1 — shutoff at every branch serving an appliance. | Inside mechanical room, on branch line |
| Ball valve #2 (exterior) | Operational shutoff — the valve you turn during generator use. Provides accessible isolation within arm’s reach of the connection point. Required by code: manual shutoff within 6 ft of appliance connection. | Exterior wall, 12-24″ upstream of quick-connect |
| Quick-connect fitting | ½″ NPT, outdoor-rated. Integral spring-loaded check valve automatically seals when hose is disconnected (safety feature, not rated as an isolation device). | Exterior wall, labeled “Emergency Generator Gas Port” |
| Generator hose | 25′ natural-gas hose (included with Predator 11,500W) | Stored in garage with generator |
Why two valves? The interior valve lets you dead-leg the entire exterior run during off-season — no gas sitting in outdoor piping all winter. The exterior valve is the one you actually operate during outages and provides code-required accessible isolation near the appliance connection. The quick-connect’s built-in check valve is a safety backup, not a substitute for either manual shutoff.
Operating Procedure:
- Before outage season: Open interior ball valve #1 (leave open all season)
- During outage: Open exterior ball valve #2 → connect hose to quick-connect → start generator
- After outage: Shut down generator → disconnect hose → close exterior ball valve #2
- Off-season: Close interior ball valve #1 (dead-legs the entire exterior run)
Valve Specs:
- Full-port brass ball valve, ½″ or ¾″ (match pipe size)
- CSA-certified for natural gas service
- ~$8-15 each
- Both valves should have lever handles (quarter-turn) for fast operation
Gas Line Requirements
| Fuel | Approx. Usage @ Full Load | Recommended Line Size (≤ 25 ft) |
|---|---|---|
| Natural Gas | ~120 ft³/hr (~120,000 BTU/hr) | ¾″ pipe minimum |
| Propane | ~1.4 gal/hr | N/A (tank fed) |
Note: Have the plumber verify the total BTU load on the gas line (boiler + generator + other appliances) to ensure adequate flow, and adjust the numbers above if the final manual lists different consumption values.
Existing Utility Service Assessment (Nov 2025)
- Meter: Honeywell/Elster AC-250 diaphragm meter (250 CFH ≈ 250 kBTU/hr). Photo documentation: PXL_20251103_175451665.
- Regulator: Actaris B2R, 3/16″ orifice, outlet set to ~7″ water column (0.25 PSIG). Photo documentation: PXL_20251103_175459883.
- Current implication: Standard low-pressure residential service; generator at ~120 kBTU/hr plus existing appliances may still push the 250 kBTU/hr meter rating during cold-weather peaks.
- Required action: Coordinate a load study with DTE Energy. Request meter/regulator upsizing (e.g., AL-425 or 2 PSIG service with secondary regulation) if calculated simultaneous load > 250 kBTU/hr or if pressure measurements drop below 5″ WC while the generator is operating.
Safety
- Installation by licensed plumber per local code
- Always run generator outside, never inside the garage
- CO alarms installed in garage and house
- Check fittings with leak-detection spray or soapy water
- Label exterior port “Emergency Generator Gas Port”
Advantages of This Setup
| Feature | Benefit |
|---|---|
| Fuel flexibility | Runs on gasoline, propane, or natural gas |
| Inverter-grade power | Clean sine wave (<5% THD) protects sensitive electronics |
| Unlimited runtime (NG) | No refueling required during long outages |
| Lower installation cost | Uses manual interlock instead of full ATS |
| Future-ready | Easily upgrade to automatic standby generator |
| Centralized location | Garage serves as power and gas distribution hub |
| Safety & compliance | Meets code with exterior quick-connect and interlock |
Example 50 A Portable Setup
- Generator: Predator 11,500 W Tri-Fuel Super Quiet Inverter
- Inlet: 50 A (240 V) NEMA 14-50 weatherproof box
- Cable: 6/4 SOOW cord, 25 ft
- Breaker: 50 A 2-pole in main panel
- Interlock: Panel-specific kit
- Max Load: ~7.6 kW on natural gas (≈ 32 A @ 240 V); 9.2 kW available on gasoline when needed
Wet Weather Operation — Generator Running Cover
The Problem
The generator must run outdoors (CO safety), but Michigan weather doesn’t stop for power outages. Heavy rain, snow, and ice storms are often the cause of outages — meaning the generator needs to operate in exactly the conditions most dangerous to it. Running an uncovered generator in wet weather risks:
- Water damage to electrical components, outlets, and control panels
- Short circuits from rain entering the receptacle panel
- Premature corrosion of engine and frame components
- Unsafe operation — wet conditions around electrical connections
A permanent shed or lean-to is one option, but requires construction, permitting, and doesn’t protect the generator if it’s ever used away from home (camping, job site, etc.). A portable running cover solves this more flexibly.
Solution: GenTent Safety Canopy (Inverter Kit)
Product: GenTent Inverter Kit — portable wet-weather running cover for fully enclosed inverter generators
Compatibility: The Predator 11,500W measures 31¼” × 25” × 29½”, giving a perimeter of ~112.5” — this fits the Standard Inverter Kit (40–120” perimeter range). Confirm fit using GenTent’s Fit Finder tool before purchase.
Note: If the Fit Finder recommends the XL Inverter Kit (104–140” perimeter, ~$189.99), the standard kit is too tight. Measure the actual generator perimeter before ordering.
Key Specifications:
| Spec | Rating |
|---|---|
| Wind resistance | Up to 70 MPH gusts |
| Rain handling | Up to 12”/hour |
| Snow load | Up to 18” accumulation |
| Material | Dual-coated marine vinyl, welded seams, 100% waterproof |
| Fire rating | NFPA 701 flame retardant |
| Ventilation | Vented top for CO exhaust escape |
| Fuel access | Side flap for refueling without removal |
| Setup | 3-step strap-mount system, no tools required |
Warranty Tiers:
| Tier | Duration | Temp Rating | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Standard | 1 year | — | Basic coverage |
| Plus | 2 years | -25°F to 185°F | UV treated |
| Extreme | 3 years | -45°F to 185°F | Made in USA — recommended for Michigan winters |
Estimated Cost: ~$165–190 depending on kit size and warranty tier
Where to Buy:
- GenTent Direct — $164.99 (free shipping)
- Home Depot — comparable pricing
- Amazon — check for inverter-specific kit
Why This Matters for This Project
The generator operating procedures (see above) require running outdoors at least 5–10 ft from the building. During a winter outage scenario — the most common and critical use case — the operator will be setting up the generator in rain, snow, or ice. The GenTent:
- Protects the generator during the 10–60 minute startup process and entire runtime
- Allows safe operation in the exact weather conditions that cause outages
- Portable — goes wherever the generator goes (not tied to a fixed structure)
- No construction needed — avoids building a permanent generator shelter
- Protects the investment — the Predator 11,500W is a $1,200–1,800 unit
Quick-Deploy Setup — Permanent Base Mount
To minimize setup time during outages, the GenTent kit is split into two groups:
Permanently mounted on the generator (even in storage):
- Kevlar ratchet strap — cinched around the generator body
- EPDM rubber grommets — seated in position
- Polycarbonate angle braces and extender arms — attached but tucked in close to the generator body for compact storage
Assembled onto the base mount during deployment:
- Dual catalyst fiberglass rods
- Polycarbonate FR3 center connector
- Vinyl canopy cover
Outage deployment procedure:
- In the garage (dry, lit, warm): Verify ratchet strap tension — re-cinch if loosened over storage. Swing extender arms out to operating angle (~45°). Snap fiberglass rods into angle braces, attach center connector, and drape the canopy.
- Roll/tow the generator outside to the operating position (5–10 ft from building) — the GenTent is already fully assembled and protecting the generator from weather immediately.
- Connect natural gas hose, power cord, and start the generator as normal.
Why this matters: The standard GenTent “3-step setup” assumes you’re assembling everything from scratch. In a real outage — 2 AM, freezing rain, dark — fumbling with straps and grommets outdoors wastes critical time. By leaving the base hardware permanently mounted, the canopy assembly becomes a 1–2 minute indoor task instead of a 5–10 minute outdoor one.
Maintenance note: Check ratchet strap tension every few months or before any planned use. The strap may relax slightly over long storage periods — a quick pull on the ratchet handle is all it takes. Inspect grommets and angle brace attachment points annually for any cracking or wear.
Storm Deployment: Positioning & Site Preparation
The GenTent handles precipitation, but proper positioning and site preparation are equally important for safe, reliable operation in severe weather.
Wind Orientation
Prevailing wind in SE Michigan: West → East
Correct generator positioning:
- Outlet/control panel facing East (downwind) — lower pressure on the downwind side pulls moisture away from panel openings rather than forcing it in, reducing snow drift against outlets and improving flap stability on the GenTent
- Exhaust directed away from all structures — prevents wind from pushing CO exhaust toward the house or garage
- Intake oriented away from drifting snow — reduces the risk of cooling vent blockage
Tip: Consistent orientation makes the deployment procedure muscle memory — no decisions to make at 2 AM in a storm. Mark the designated position and facing direction on the deployment pad or ground.
Elevated Platform
The generator should not sit directly on the ground during winter operation:
- Platform options: Concrete pavers (preferred), treated lumber frame, or the permanent concrete pad (see Notes section)
- Clearance: Maintain 12–18″ clearance around the unit on all sides for airflow and snow management
- Purpose: Prevents snow drift from blocking intake, keeps electrical connections above standing water/slush, and improves stability on uneven or frozen ground
Anchoring in High Wind
When deploying during storms with sustained winds above 30 mph:
- Stake the GenTent using ground stakes driven into adjacent soil/gravel
- Add sandbags (2–4 bags, 25–40 lb each) at the generator base for stability
- Verify fabric tension — loose canopy material will flap, reduce protection, and can damage the cover over time
Snow & Ice Management During Runtime
During extended generator operation in winter conditions:
- Clear snow from around the intake every 1–2 hours during heavy snowfall
- Prevent drift buildup against the generator body — drifts can block cooling vents and restrict airflow
- Keep the gas hose visible and clear — a buried hose is a trip hazard and harder to disconnect in an emergency
- Knock off ice accumulation on the GenTent canopy and around the exhaust area to maintain ventilation
Cold Weather Considerations
- Gas hose: Verify the included 25′ natural gas hose is rated for cold temperatures (check operating manual for minimum temperature rating)
- Cold starts: The generator may require multiple start attempts in extreme cold — allow extra time in the deployment estimate
- Battery maintenance: Keep the generator’s electric-start battery on a trickle/maintenance charger during winter months so it’s ready for outages
- Cord stiffness: The 50A power cord stiffens significantly in extreme cold — allow extra time for routing and connection
- Portable lighting: Bring headlamps and a battery-powered work light (Makita 18V or similar) — you’ll be deploying in the dark more often than not
Practice Drills & Laminated Procedure
- Practice the full deployment at least once per year, including a winter-conditions drill before the first cold snap (October/November)
- Involve all household members who may need to deploy the generator
- Post a laminated startup/shutdown checklist at the generator’s storage location — see Operating Procedure (Option A - House Interlock) for the steps to include
- Time the drill to calibrate realistic expectations for the power gap (see Realistic Power Restoration Timeline)
Outage Load Management Strategy (Portable Inverter)
- Primary summer objective: Keep the house central air conditioner operating while supplying essential home circuits.
- HVAC coordination: Install a soft-start module or load-shed relay on the central AC to keep compressor inrush below the generator’s surge capability.
- Load shedding: Lock out the garage mini-split and turn off the house electric water heater breakers during generator operation; rely on the gas-fired boiler water heater that serves the garage shower for domestic hot water needs.
- Operational steps: Before switching to generator power, flip off high-draw electric appliances (oven/range, dryer, dishwasher) and post an “outage operating procedure” checklist near the transfer equipment.
- Headroom: With the mini-split and electric water heater offline, total continuous load typically remains under 6–7 kW, allowing the central AC (~5–6 kW running) and essential circuits to operate without overloading the inverter.
- Monitoring: Use a CT-based load monitor (e.g., Emporia Vue, Shelly EM) tied into Home Assistant or a standalone display to verify real-time amperage and prevent accidental overloads.
Future Upgrade Path: Permanent Standby Generator
Design Philosophy
Current plan: Start with portable tri-fuel generator (Predator 11,500W inverter or similar)
Future possibility: Upgrade to permanent standby generator (Generac, Kohler, Briggs & Stratton, or other reputable brand)
Why this matters: The electrical infrastructure installed during initial garage electrical service should support BOTH portable use now AND permanent standby upgrade later, avoiding expensive rework.
Upgrade Process
If a permanent whole-house standby generator is installed in the future:
Existing Infrastructure Can Be Reused:
- Natural gas connection - Existing gas port at garage serves permanent generator
- Electrical conduit - Already properly sized for generator circuits
- Feeder wiring - 50A circuit adequate for most residential standby units (12-22kW typical)
- Panel preparation - Space and knockout available for ATS installation
What Changes:
- Replace manual interlock → Install automatic transfer switch (ATS)
- Remove portable inlet box → Mount permanent generator with direct connection
- Add generator pad → Concrete pad with proper clearances (may already be installed)
- Connect natural gas → Permanent hard-pipe from quick-connect location
What Stays the Same:
- Location of electrical infrastructure (house or garage panel)
- Natural gas service to garage area
- Feeder circuit sizing (50A adequate for most residential standby generators)
- Code compliance and safety systems
Permanent Generator Options
Typical Residential Standby Generators:
- 12-14kW - Minimum for essentials (lights, fridge, furnace, some outlets) - ~$3,500-5,000
- 16-20kW - Mid-range (adds A/C, more circuits) - ~$4,500-6,500
- 22-26kW - Whole-house (runs everything including A/C, well pump, etc.) - ~$6,000-9,000
Reputable Brands:
- Generac (most popular, good dealer network)
- Kohler (premium quality, higher cost)
- Briggs & Stratton (good mid-range option)
- Cummins (commercial-grade, very reliable)
Natural Gas Considerations:
- All residential standby generators available in natural gas models
- Typical consumption: 200-300 ft³/hr at full load (varies by size)
- DTE gas meter upgrade may be required (see existing utility service assessment)
- Existing gas service to garage designed to accommodate future generator load
Cost Comparison: Portable vs. Permanent
Portable Generator System (Initial):
- Generator: ~$1,200-1,800 (Predator 11,500W tri-fuel)
- Electrical installation: ~$300-800 (inlet + interlock during electrical service)
- Natural gas connection: Included with garage gas service installation
- Total initial investment: ~$1,500-2,600
- Operational flexibility: Portable, can be used for other purposes, tri-fuel capability
Permanent Standby System (Future):
- Generator unit: ~$4,500-9,000 (depending on size)
- ATS installation: ~$800-1,500 (replaces manual interlock)
- Generator pad: ~$300-600 (if not already installed)
- Electrical hookup: ~$500-1,000 (may be less if infrastructure already in place)
- Gas connection: Minimal (use existing port/line)
- Total future investment: ~$6,000-12,000
- Operational benefit: Fully automatic, no manual intervention during outages
Why Design for Future Upgrade Now?
Doing it right during initial electrical service installation:
- Avoids expensive rework - No need to shut down power, re-permit, re-wire later
- Panel interlock easier to install - Before panel is energized and fully populated
- Conduit and feeder routing - Simpler during construction phase
- Single permit process - Not separate visits and fees
- Proper location planning - Inlet/ATS location works for both portable and permanent
- Natural gas already planned - Garage gas service supports both uses
Cost difference minimal: Adding generator capability during initial electrical service costs 1,500-3,000+.
Flexibility maintained: Start with portable, upgrade to permanent whenever desired (or never upgrade if portable meets needs).
Notes
- Install concrete or paved pad for generator use outside the garage — elevated 4–6″ above grade, with marked orientation for correct wind positioning (see Wind Orientation).
- Mark clear operating and exhaust clearance zones.
- Include weather-protected storage for the gas hose, cords, and GenTent running cover.
- Label all related breakers and switches clearly.
- Post a laminated deployment checklist at the generator storage location (startup, shutdown, emergency procedures).
- Practice full deployment annually — including at least one winter-conditions drill before the season (see Practice Drills Laminated Procedure).
- Schedule DTE coordination call once appliance BTU inventory is complete; provide meter serial 402846406 and request service capacity review.
Prepared for: Garage → House backup power integration Author: Dan Gahagan Last Updated: 2026-02-14 (Added storm deployment procedures — wind orientation, elevated platform, anchoring, snow/ice management, cold weather considerations, practice drills)