Garage Construction Project

Critical Pre-Insulation Requirements

19 min read

Garage Construction – Critical Pre-Insulation Requirements

A concise, contractor-ready checklist of all items that must be installed before the builders finish framing, roofing, windows, and siding. These items are essential to ensure proper insulation, air sealing, moisture control, and future utility installation for the 24’ × 40’ garage with habitable loft.

Confirmed with Marcus (Hershberger's) — 2025-12-01

Called Marcus today and confirmed the following pre-insulation work will be completed by the framing crew:

  • ✅ Exterior seam taping — All exterior sheathing seams will be taped
  • ✅ Tyvek house wrap — Will install Tyvek WRB with proper overlap
  • ✅ Window flashing — All windows will be flashed and taped after install
  • ✅ Exterior penetrations — Will seal all exterior penetrations
  • ✅ Vented roof assembly — Vented soffits + continuous ridge vent (vented assembly confirmed)

This confirmation covers the critical air/moisture control and roof venting items below.

✅ ALREADY COMPLETED (Foundation Phase)

Slab Insulation

  • ✅ R-10 perimeter slab edge insulation — Installed Oct 29, 2025 (bright orange foam panels around entire foundation perimeter)
  • ✅ Under-slab Creatherm insulation — 2” foam, R-10, installed Oct 22, 2025
  • ✅ Radiant PEX loops — Installed and pressure tested Oct 22-23, 2025

See drone photos: 2025-10-29 - DJI - Exterior Slab Insulation and Fiberglass Rebar - Aerial View 1.md through 2025-10-29 - DJI - Exterior Slab Insulation and Fiberglass Rebar - Aerial View 6.md

🔴 CRITICAL — Must Be Done DURING Framing

These items must be completed while walls/roof are being framed. Cannot be done after sheathing/siding installed.

Air & Moisture Control

  • ✅ Tape all exterior sheathing seams (Zip tape or 3M 8067) — CONFIRMED 2025-12-01
  • ✅ Properly install WRB (housewrap) with shingle-style overlap — CONFIRMED: Tyvek 2025-12-01
  • ✅ Flash all windows correctly (sill pan, corner flashing, fully taped flanges) — CONFIRMED 2025-12-01
  • ✅ Seal exterior penetrations (vents, pipes, electrical through-sheathing) — CONFIRMED 2025-12-01

Roof / Ceiling Structure

  • ✅ Finalize roof insulation strategy now — CONFIRMED 2025-12-01: VENTED ASSEMBLY
    • Vented: ✅ Vented soffits + continuous ridge vent — CONFIRMED
  • ✅ Rafter/truss depth — Pre-engineered attic trusses (Letherer Truss Job #123907):
    • A1 24’ Attic trusses: 10:12 pitch, top chord 2x8, designed for 40 PSF live load in attic floor area
    • Max truss height: 11’-03-08”, attic room width: 5’-0” to 19’-0”
    • Spacing: 24” OC (standard) / 48” OC (girders)
    • See Truss Engineering Drawings for full specifications
  • ✅ Soffit depth for airflow — Truss overhangs are 1’-0” (12”) on both sides per loading ticket; adequate depth for vented soffit panels
  • ✅ Dormer transitions — Covered by pre-engineered truss package (SP1 modified trusses + T1/TX/AM dormer trusses); additional blocking can be added after framing if needed

Structure & Fire Safety

  • ✅ Garage-to-loft fire separation — Requires three components:
    1. Garage ceiling: 5/8” Type X drywall (owner DIY)
    2. Stairwell enclosure: 2x4 framed walls by Hershberger’s under stairs/mechanical room; owner to drywall
    3. Fire-rated door: Required at top of stairs — 20-minute fire-rated self-closing door (owner to purchase/install)
  • ✅ Type X drywall framing — Owner to install 5/8” Type X drywall on garage ceiling (not in Hershberger contract; DIY with lift)
  • ✅ Pressure-treated bottom plates — Standard construction practice for slab-contacting walls

Fire-Rated Door Required

A 20-minute fire-rated, self-closing door is required at the top of the stairwell to maintain fire separation between garage and habitable loft. Standard interior doors are NOT fire-rated. Look for doors labeled “20-minute” or with a fire rating stamp. Self-closing hinges or door closer also required.

Future Apartment Conversion Strategy

The loft will initially be finished as office/hobby/theater space (no bedroom). However, fire-rated ceiling drywall and fire-rated stair door are being done now because they would require tearing out work later. Additional apartment requirements (kitchen plumbing, bathroom, separate entrance, bedroom egress windows, etc.) can be added later without demolishing existing work.

Roof Penetrations

  • ✅ Sewer vent stack — Roof penetration for plumbing vent included in roofing phase; will be capped for later connection

Exterior Wall Penetrations - Can Be Added Later

Mini-split line sets, boiler vent, dryer vent, bathroom exhaust, kitchen range-hood exhaust, and other wall penetrations can be cut through finished sheathing/siding when needed. Slightly more work than during framing, but common practice and doesn’t require pre-planning exact locations now.

Kitchen hood caveat: the exterior hole defers cleanly (straight shot through the gable wall), but its supporting work does not — blocking, circuits, and the makeup-air chase must go in before drywall. See Loft Kitchen Hood + Makeup-Air Pre-Roughs below.

Paint booth exhaust option: West and north walls have windows that could accommodate temporary window-mounted exhaust fans for paint/ventilation projects without requiring a dedicated permanent penetration.

🟡 CAN BE DONE AFTER FRAMING (Before Insulation/Drywall)

These items can be completed after framing is done but BEFORE insulation and drywall installation. Easier access while walls are still open.

Blocking & Backer Boards

  • Install blocking needed for insulation baffles (eaves and mid-span)
  • Add extra studs or blocking where cabinets, shelves, or minisplit heads will mount
  • Install ¾” plywood backer board on interior mechanical wall

Wall-Board Fastener Prep (Protruding Nail Points)

Discovered 2026-06-20 during DIY electrical rough-in: siding/sheathing nails driven from outside that missed the stud overshoot through the OSB and protrude into the stud bays — a laceration hazard now, and a snag/tear risk for faced batts and vapor retarder later. Sweep all four walls before insulation.

Don't bend the tips — it can defeat the vinyl's expansion gap

The exterior is CertainTeed-style Dutchlap vinyl, which must hang loose on its nails (head held ~1/32” off the hem, nail centered in the slot) so it can move ~1/2” over a 12’ run across a seasonal temperature swing. Bending a protruding tip sideways imparts little axial force, but you can’t back up the head — it’s pinned behind the siding — so any blow with a straight-on (axial) component drives the nail outward and seats the head tight against the vinyl, killing the gap. Cut/nip flush instead of bending.

  • Preferred fix — nip flush with end-cutting nippers (e.g. Pittsburgh 10” Heavy Duty End Nipper, ~$10, Harbor Freight — HF rates it to cut nails/wire/staples flush with the surface): a squeeze, zero axial force on the nail, no sparks. Knock down the sharp cut face. Best for points you can reach. (Not bolt cutters — their bulky head can’t sit flush against the OSB and leaves a sharp chiseled stub.)
  • Oscillating multi-tool (bi-metal blade) or angle grinder (thin cut-off wheel) for points nippers can’t reach — both throw hot sparks/burrs (keep clear of Tyvek/sawdust/foam; you’re working the interior tips, well away from the vinyl). Knock down the burr. PPE: glasses + gloves.
  • Bending is a last resort only (no tools on hand): use light sideways taps to fold the tip flat against the framing — never a straight-on blow toward the exterior.
  • Don’t pull the nails — heads are pinned under the siding; pulling damages the panel.
  • These are missed-stud fasteners (the on-stud nails carry the panels), so individual points are a nuisance, not a structural concern — no contractor action needed. The expansion-gap risk is governed by the whole field of properly-set nails, so a stray snugged point won’t buckle a wall — but flush-cutting sidesteps it entirely.

Mechanical Runs & Drilling

  • Drill or frame large-diameter holes for future mechanical runs (HVAC, plumbing, electrical)
  • Pre-frame any necessary vent penetrations (bath fan, dryer, kitchen vent)
  • Air-seal rim joists at sheathing connection

Utility System Pre-Stubs (Air, Fumes, Vacuum)

  • Compressed air riser to loft: Install capped 3/4” Rapidair Maxline vertical riser from main floor to loft through utility chase; terminate with capped NPT fitting behind blank wall plate; include drip leg + ball valve at base (see Compressed Air System Shopping List)
  • Fume extraction riser: Install capped 6” spiral steel duct vertical riser from main floor to loft; route through utility chase; cap both ends with metal caps; label “FUME EXTRACTION - DO NOT CONNECT TO DUST COLLECTION” (see Fume Extraction Strategy)
  • Central vacuum riser: Install 2” thin-wall PVC riser to loft with low-voltage control wire alongside; stub floor sweep inlet rough-in near garage doors; install backing/blocking at planned retractable hose station locations (see Central Vac Planning)
  • Label all stubs clearly at both ends before drywall

Wall-Mounted Pressure Washer Pre-Roughs (Bay 3 / Mechanical-Room Wall)

See Wall-Mounted Pressure Washer and 2026-06-07 — Wall-Mounted Pressure Washer: Bay 3 Wall, Cold Feed + Capped Hot Stub for rationale. Unit selection is deferred; these hooks just keep the option open before drywall.

  • Mount blocking: Solid horizontal blocking at the chosen Bay 3 / mechanical-room wall location, sized for a ~30–50 lb unit plus reel reaction force — same principle as the air hose-reel mounts (“retract force on a loaded reel is significant; anchors must hit framing or solid backing”).
  • Capped water stubs at the mount: cold hard-water line (primary feed) + a capped hot stub off the boiler DHW for a future hot feed. Insulate the (short) hot run. Label both. (Live connection follows water/boiler install in Spring 2026 — Trench 2; stub-out the in-wall portion before drywall.)
  • Backflow preventer / vacuum breaker at the supply connection (code; permanently plumbed appliance on a potable line).
  • Dedicated GFCI circuit + box roughed to the mount location (voltage per chosen unit — 120V/20A typical, 240V for hot-water units). See Main Floor Outlet & Circuit Layout.

Loft Door-Closed Comfort Pre-Roughs

See Loft Door-Closed Comfort and 2026-05-15 — Loft Door-Closed Comfort Approach for rationale. Pre-rough generously; layout is still flexible and caps are cheap.

  • Transfer-fan wall sleeves (×3-4, speculative): 8” round galvanized sleeves at ceiling height, capped both ends, on every wall that might end up being a closed-room/common-area shared wall. Minimum locations: bathroom (definite) + 2-3 future office / 2nd bedroom / server closet locations. Each ~$15 in materials.
  • Return-grille framed openings: 10x6 stud-bay clearances at floor height paired with each transfer-fan sleeve. No electrical, no sleeve — just framed-in clearance for a future passive grille.
  • Transfer-fan electrical boxes: single-gang box at each fan sleeve location, plus switch-leg back to a wall box for a future Leviton DT160 timer. Wire each fan location to the loft general-lighting circuit (15A; <0.5A per fan).
  • Bedroom mini-split head blocking: install 2x6 horizontal blocking between studs at planned head height (6-8” below ceiling) on the interior wall opposite the egress window (lock egress window location first). Pre-rough lineset + condensate path from the head location to the mech-room chase.

Loft ERV Pre-Rough (Install Deferred 5+ Years)

See ERV Pre-Rough (Install Deferred) and 2026-05-15 — Loft ERV Pre-Rough Now, Install Later for rationale. Sized for a Panasonic Intelli-Balance 100. Pre-rough cost ~$200; unit purchase deferred until apartment-conversion trigger.

  • 2 exterior wall penetrations (intake + exhaust), opposite walls, located away from boiler flue and away from mini-split outdoor condenser intakes. Cap both with weatherproof exterior caps.
  • 4” or 6” insulated flex chase routing from a central ceiling location (planned ERV unit location) to:
    • ≥3 supply terminations: bedroom, future office/2nd bedroom location, second flex location
    • 2 return terminations: kitchen, bathroom
  • Condensate drain stub to mech wall.
  • 120V circuit + outlet box at planned ERV unit location, capped at outlet box.
  • All chase endpoints capped, pull-strings installed, both ends labeled.

Loft Kitchen Hood + Makeup-Air Pre-Roughs

Kitchen is Phase 2/3 (deferred years), so the exterior duct holes are deliberately deferred — they cut cleanly through finished siding later (see the “Exterior Wall Penetrations” note above). What must happen now, while the gable walls are open, is the supporting work that’s expensive to retrofit behind insulation/drywall. Full design rationale in Fume Extraction Strategy → Loft Kitchen Exhaust Plan.

  • Reserve the east-gable range/hood location on the kitchen elevation — don’t let the 12k mini-split head, a window, or tall cabinets land where the range + 6” hood duct need to go.
  • Solid blocking in the east gable at hood-mount height (2×6 horizontal between studs) — a wall-mount chimney hood is heavy; avoids opening finished drywall later to find framing.
  • 240V range circuit (induction, 40–50A) + hood circuit — at minimum conduit + capped boxes to the kitchen wall, per the electrical gate.
  • Makeup-air chase — west gable → kitchen, through the kneewall void (owner decision 2026-06-23): the west gable is upwind (prevailing W→E) and ~40’ from the hood exhaust, so the intake can never re-inhale the grease plume. Pre-run a capped duct/sleeve east through the kneewall triangle (natural full-length chase). Size up for the long run — 8–10” for a 400–600 CFM hood (a passive 6” run only moves ~150–200 CFM). Insulate the portion that passes through conditioned space (condensation); bare is fine in a cold kneewall.
  • Makeup-air interlock wire from the hood location to the future damper at the west gable (low-voltage; needed if the hood ends up >400 CFM, which triggers the M1503.4 makeup-air mandate).
  • Reserve the west-gable intake location + cap; keep ≥3 ft from any other termination.

Confirm on site (both easiest while framing is open):

  • Kitchen’s usable share of the east gable after the bathroom + stair landing take their bites — decides whether the range fits on the gable or shifts to the peninsula.
  • Clear kneewall path, west gable → kitchen for the makeup-air chase — no AX girder truss, blocking, or insulation baffle obstructing the ~40’ run.

Fallback if the kneewall path is blocked

If a girder/blocking/insulation conflict, the conditioned-triangle storage plan, or a needed downward grade rules out the kneewall, the duct can drop through the loft floor and run in the garage ceiling space below, then rise where needed. Keep the garage/dwelling fire separation intact (26-ga steel, no garage openings, firestopped — IRC R302.5.2), don’t drill the 2×10 joists for a big duct (run parallel in a bay or surface-mount exposed), and never notch the truss bottom chords. Detail in Fume Extraction Strategy.

Both gables are getting crowded

East gable: 6” hood exhaust (+ possible makeup-air provision) and the 4” bath exhaust are all east-end — keep ≥3 ft between terminations. Put the makeup-air intake on the west gable so it can’t ingest the hood exhaust. ERV pre-rough penetrations go on opposite walls away from the boiler flue.

Loft Interior Door Rough Openings

See Interior Door Specifications and 2026-05-15 — Loft Interior Door Specifications for rationale.

  • Confirm rough opening heights during framing accommodate the planned undercut on each finished door: bedroom 1.5”, bathroom 3/4”, future office 1”.
  • Hinge backing for solid-core doors: ensure double studs or solid backing at hinge locations for the bedroom, bathroom, and future office door rough openings (solid-core doors are heavier than hollow-core).

Utility Runs to Loft (Vertical Chases)

  • Route utilities from mechanical room to loft through wall cavities before drywall
  • Standard stud bays (3.5”) accommodate: electrical, mini-split line sets (~3”), 3/4” Maxline compressed air
  • 6” fume extraction duct: run in corner or use 2x6 wall section if needed
  • No special framing required during initial construction — just need access before drywall

Conduit & Low-Voltage

  • Add conduit runs for fiber, ethernet, cameras, AV, and future circuits
  • Pre-run conduit routes for minisplit line sets if possible

Electrical Pre-Drywall Gate (Owner DIY) — do BEFORE insulation

The single most expensive things to retrofit are circuits and conduit buried behind drywall. The Electrical Future-Proofing doc ranks these in detail; this is the consolidated gate — none of these should be skipped before insulation goes in. Actionable, stage-tagged tasks live in To-Do; the full panel/circuit plan is in the Panel Schedule.

Must-do-now (Future-Proofing “Do First” items):

  • Whole-panel surge protector (SPD) — buy + install the Eaton CHSPT2ULTRA (house panel first, garage second if cascading). See [[20-Design/Interior/Electrical Future-Proofing#1. Whole-Panel Type 2 Surge Protection (SPD) ⭐ CRITICAL|Future-Proofing #1]]. Add to procurement now — not yet in the buy pipeline.
  • Smoke/CO/heat detector interconnect — pull 14/3 NM-B on its own 15A circuit; pick the detector brand first (interconnect is proprietary). Heat detector in the bay, smoke in finished spaces, CO at the house-side door. See [[20-Design/Interior/Electrical Future-Proofing#11. Hardwired Smoke/CO Interconnect Wire|Future-Proofing #11]] and Fire Extinguisher Plan.
  • Supplemental ground rod + #6 bare copper bond — second rod ≥6’ from the first (NEC 250.53(A)(2)); complements the SPD. See [[20-Design/Interior/Electrical Future-Proofing#3. Supplemental Ground Rod + Bonding Upgrade|Future-Proofing #3]].
  • Empty ENT conduit chases + pull strings — panel→ceiling, panel→loft, panel→far corner, mech-room→wall heads. See [[20-Design/Interior/Electrical Future-Proofing#2. Empty ENT Conduit Chases (Panel → Strategic Points)|Future-Proofing #2]].
  • CAT6 structured backbone + drops — camera, WAP, and garage-door-opener drops off the 1,000’ spool. See [[20-Design/Interior/Electrical Future-Proofing#4. CAT6 Structured Wiring Backbone|Future-Proofing #4–6, #14]].
  • Second 240V rough-in stub (capped box + 1” ENT) — for a future 2nd EV / welder / dust collector. See [[20-Design/Interior/Electrical Future-Proofing#9. Second 240V Rough-In (Conduit + Box for Future EV/Welder)|Future-Proofing #9]].
  • Loft subpanel feeder stub — at minimum a 1” ENT panel→loft for the future 100A subpanel. See [[20-Design/Interior/Electrical Future-Proofing#7. Subpanel Feeder Pull to Loft|Future-Proofing #7]].
  • Speaker-wire pre-runs (CL3R) to workshop/bay/loft zones — optional but cheap now. See [[20-Design/Interior/Electrical Future-Proofing#10. Ceiling/Wall Speaker Wire Pre-Runs|Future-Proofing #10]].

New circuits/roughs from the 2026-06-07 completeness pass:

  • Mechanical-room rack/network outlet (UPS-backed) and boiler/pump control circuit with a reserved external-circulator contingency outlet at the boiler. See Electrical Planning.
  • Dedicated shop fridge/freezer circuit (own 20A, self-test GFCI).
  • ~2 additional exterior WP GFCI outlets (opposite side wall + driveway/apron side).
  • Switched ceiling air-filter outlet (hanging shop air filter).
  • USB-C/USB-A receptacles at the workbench (optional).
  • Battery-backup egress light at the stair landing / exit door.
  • Stairwell-bottom → landing smurf tube + 12/3 (future apartment stair-switch relocation) — per stairwell circuit decision.

Confirm panel space count before insulation

Before walls close, read the garage panel’s space count off its label and update the panel schedule tally. The SPD, loft 100A feeder, 2nd-240V stub, and 2nd EV receptacle are all 2-pole — confirm there’s room (or plan tandems / an external SPD) while it’s cheap to adjust.

⭐ HIGHLY RECOMMENDED (Strongly Advisable for Best Performance)

Experienced Contractor Note

Hershberger’s builds 100+ pole barns/garages per year. Items like synthetic underlayment, vapor-open sheathing, and proper window rough openings are standard practice for experienced contractors. The items below are either standard (verify with photos) or owner-responsibility (add after framing).

Roof & Wall Performance (Likely Standard - Verify with Photos)

  • ✅ Use synthetic roof underlayment rated for metal roofing — standard for metal roofing
  • ✅ Ensure roof sheathing is vapor-open (OSB or plywood; avoid foil-faced) — standard practice

Owner Responsibility - After Framing

  • Add blocking throughout sloped ceiling and knee wall areas — for insulation baffles, owner to add
  • Install ¾” plywood backer board on interior mechanical wall — custom to owner’s layout
  • Add conduit runs for fiber, ethernet, cameras, AV, and future circuits — owner scope
  • Pre-run conduit routes for minisplit line sets if possible — owner scope
  • Add extra studs or blocking where cabinets, shelves, or minisplit heads will mount — owner to specify locations
  • Ensure rim joist areas are easily accessible for later insulation and air sealing — verify during framing

Garage Door & Window Prep (Likely Standard - Verify with Photos)

  • ✅ Ensure air-sealing gaps around windows/doors are correct (for later foam sealing) — part of confirmed window flashing
  • Install jamb extensions if future drywall alignment requires them — depends on owner’s finish plans

📸 Photo Documentation

See Framing - Photo Documentation Checklist for a comprehensive phase-by-phase checklist of what to photograph during construction.

💡 OPTIONAL / NICE-TO-HAVE (Improves Efficiency or Future Flexibility)

Energy Efficiency & Durability Upgrades

  • Upgrade WRB to high-performance membrane (Tyvek Commercial, Zip System)
  • Add exterior rigid foam (polyiso) under siding for increased R-value — EVALUATED & DECLINED (see below)
  • Use advanced sheathing tapes for long-term durability (Siga, Pro Clima)

Exterior Rigid Foam — Considered But Not Needed (2025-12-02)

After analysis, exterior rigid foam was determined unnecessary for this project:

  • Split thermal envelope: The loft is primarily insulated by attic floor (R-49+), knee walls, and sloped ceiling — not the exterior garage walls
  • Garage doesn’t need tight temperature control: Exterior foam would mainly benefit the semi-conditioned garage level
  • Small gable-end walls: The only loft walls exposed to exterior are small triangular gable ends, adequately served by R-21 cavity insulation
  • Better ROI elsewhere: Max attic insulation (R-60), quality knee wall air sealing, upgraded windows (already ordered), and garage ceiling insulation provide more benefit per dollar
  • Not standard practice: Exterior rigid foam is uncommon for detached garages/workshops; typical in Passive House or high-performance residential builds
  • Cost avoided: $3,000-6,000 redirected to higher-impact improvements

See 2025-12-02 — Exterior rigid foam insulation (not needed) for full decision rationale.

Interior-Facing Preparation

  • Add nailers/backing for future TV mounts, cabinets, railings
  • Pre-frame for potential skylights or roof windows

Future-Proofing

  • Install extra conduits from garage → house for data or power
  • Oversize soffits for future lighting, cameras, or wiring
  • Add additional attic or knee wall access doors for maintenance

📌 SUPER CONCISE SUMMARY FOR BUILDER

✅ ALREADY DONE (Foundation Phase - Oct 2025)

  • ✅ R-10 perimeter slab edge insulation (Oct 29)
  • ✅ Under-slab Creatherm R-10 foam (Oct 22)
  • ✅ Radiant PEX loops installed & tested (Oct 22-23)

🔴 CRITICAL — During Framing (Confirmed with Marcus 2025-12-01)

  • ✅ Tape all sheathing — CONFIRMED
  • ✅ Proper window flashing — CONFIRMED
  • ✅ Proper WRB install (Tyvek) — CONFIRMED
  • ✅ Roof venting: VENTED ASSEMBLY — CONFIRMED
  • ✅ Install soffit/ridge vent — CONFIRMED
  • ✅ Truss depth: Pre-engineered A1 24’ attic trusses (10:12, 2x8 top chord) — See Truss Specs
  • ✅ PT bottom plates on slab — standard practice
  • ✅ Fire separation: Type X ceiling (owner DIY) + enclosed stairwell + fire-rated door at top
  • ✅ Sewer vent stack — roof penetration in roofing phase, capped for later

🟡 AFTER FRAMING (Before Insulation/Drywall)

  • Drill holes for mechanical runs
  • Install insulation baffle blocking
  • Add cabinet/minisplit mounting blocking
  • Nip/cut protruding siding-nail points flush in the stud bays (all walls, before insulation) — don’t bend (can tighten heads against the vinyl and defeat its expansion gap)
  • Plywood backer on mechanical wall
  • Route utilities to loft through wall cavities (no special chase framing needed)
  • Compressed air riser to loft (3/4” Maxline, capped)
  • Fume extraction riser to loft (6” spiral steel, capped)
  • Central vacuum riser to loft (2” thin-wall PVC + low-voltage wire)
  • Floor sweep inlet stub near garage doors
  • Retractable hose station backing at planned locations
  • Pressure washer pre-roughs (Bay 3/mech wall): mount blocking + capped cold/hot water stubs + backflow preventer + dedicated GFCI circuit
  • Mini-split line sets to loft
  • Loft kitchen hood pre-roughs (Phase 2/3 kitchen): reserve east-gable range/hood spot, hood blocking, 240V range + hood circuits, and a capped makeup-air chase from the west gable (upwind) east through the kneewall void — exterior duct holes deferred
  • Conduit for wiring & low-voltage
  • Electrical pre-drywall gate: SPD, smoke/CO/heat interconnect, 2nd ground rod, ENT chases, CAT6 backbone, 2nd-240V stub, loft subpanel feeder stub, + new circuits (fridge, exterior outlets, air-filter, rack/PoE, circulator contingency) — see the Electrical Pre-Drywall Gate section above
  • Label all stubs before drywall

⭐ HIGHLY RECOMMENDED

  • Synthetic underlayment
  • Vapor-open roof sheathing
  • Blocking for knee walls / dormers

💡 OPTIONAL

  • Higher-grade WRB
  • Exterior rigid foam — DECLINED (not needed for split thermal envelope)
  • Extra nailers and conduits
  • Oversize soffits

Graph View

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