Garage Construction Project

Fume Extraction Strategy

20 min read

Fume Extraction Strategy

Purpose: Industrial-style negative-pressure ventilation system for hazardous fumes and vapors in the garage workshop.

Critical Safety Note: Fume extraction is NOT dust collection. These are fundamentally different systems with different requirements. Never route chemical vapors through dust collection systems.

Related:

Why Fume Extraction is Different from Dust Collection

Dust CollectionFume Extraction
Sawdust, wood chips, debrisChemical vapors, solvent fumes, smoke
Standard PVC ducting acceptableMetal duct ONLY (static/fire risk with PVC)
Standard shop vac motors fineExplosion-proof motors required for solvents
Can recirculate with HEPA filterMust exhaust outdoors - no recirculation
Lower CFM needed (100-400 CFM)High CFM required (500-4000+ CFM)
Fire risk: lowFire/explosion risk: HIGH with solvents

Bottom Line: A central vacuum or shop vac cannot handle fumes because:

  • Motor sparks create ignition risk
  • PVC causes static buildup (ignition source)
  • Filters clog with solvent and paint
  • Cannot move enough CFM for vapor dilution
  • Not explosion-proof rated

Fume Sources in This Garage

Based on planned activities (Corvette and Boat Restoration Planning):

System A - Hobby/Light Fabrication (Loft + Light Stations)

  • FDM/filament 3D printers - Ultrafine particles (UFPs) and VOCs vary by material:
    • ABS/ASA: Styrene vapors and high UFP emissions - ventilation strongly recommended
    • PETG: Moderate VOC emissions - ventilation recommended
    • Nylon: Caprolactam emissions - ventilation recommended
    • PLA: Low emissions but still produces UFPs - enclosure with filtration usually sufficient
    • Specialty filaments: Various VOCs depending on additives - check MSDS
  • Resin 3D printers - VOCs from UV resin curing
  • IPA wash station - Isopropyl alcohol fumes from resin cleaning
  • Soldering station - Flux smoke and lead fumes
  • Laser cutter (future) - Smoke and fumes from cutting materials
  • Airbrushing - Small-scale paint overspray

System B - Heavy-Duty Automotive (Main Floor)

  • Automotive painting - Solvent-rich primers, base coats, clear coats
  • Parts cleaning - Brake cleaner, degreasers, solvents
  • Fiberglass/body work - Resin vapors, sanding dust with chemicals
  • Temporary paint booth - Corvette restoration painting

System A: Hobby/Light Fabrication Fume Extraction

Overview

Centralized negative-pressure ventilation serving upstairs loft workstations and light fabrication areas on main floor.

Specifications

Ducting:

  • Main trunk: 6” spiral steel duct (26-30 gauge)
  • Branch lines: 4-6” spiral steel to each workstation
  • Flex connections: 3-6 ft anti-static flex hose at each workstation only
  • No PVC anywhere in fume-handling paths

Blower:

  • Type: Outdoor-rated inline blower OR sealed mechanical closet blower
  • Location: Outside vapor path (roof, exterior wall, or sealed closet)
  • CFM: 400-800 CFM for hobby-level system
  • Motor: Standard (not explosion-proof) acceptable for light fumes

Controls:

  • Blast gates/dampers at each branch line
  • Close unused stations to maintain suction at active station
  • Optional: Smart relay for remote control via Home Assistant

Exhaust:

  • Direct outdoor exhaust (gable wall or roof penetration)
  • Never recirculate - all fumes must exit building

Branch Locations (Planned)

StationLocationBranch SizeNotes
FDM printer enclosureLoft workbench4”For ABS/ASA/PETG; PLA may use filtered enclosure only
Resin printer enclosureLoft workbench4”Primary use case
IPA wash stationLoft workbench4”Adjacent to resin printer
Soldering stationLoft electronics bench4”Flux fume capture
General fume hoodLoft6”Chemical handling, airbrushing
Future laser cutterMain floor or loft6”High priority when added

Integrating Equipment with Built-In Exhaust Fans

Some equipment (like enclosed 3D printers) includes built-in exhaust fans for internal temperature control and filtration. When connecting these to the centralized fume extraction system, special considerations apply.

The Problem: Backpressure

Built-in equipment fans are sized for their enclosure volume, not for pushing air through 15-30+ feet of ductwork. Without the main blower running:

  • The equipment fan must overcome all duct resistance (friction, elbows, length)
  • Actual airflow drops significantly despite fan running at speed
  • Temperature control becomes unpredictable (fan speed no longer correlates to airflow)
  • Fan motor works harder, runs hotter, and may fail prematurely

The Solution: Run Both Fans

When exhausting equipment outdoors through the fume extraction system, always run the main blower:

  • Main blower creates negative pressure, “pulling” air through the duct
  • Equipment fan handles enclosure circulation and temperature sensing
  • Backpressure on equipment fan is minimal (assisted flow)
  • Temperature control remains accurate

Automation Options:

MethodComplexityNotes
Manual switchLowTurn on main blower when starting equipment; easy to forget
Smart plug/relayMediumTrigger blower via Home Assistant, OctoPrint, Klipper, etc.
Pressure-activated damperHighBarometric damper senses equipment fan and triggers main blower

Makeup Air Requirement:

When the main blower runs, it creates negative pressure in connected enclosures. Equipment with built-in fans needs an intake air path:

  • Ensure enclosure has a filtered inlet vent
  • Allows equipment fan to pull fresh air in while exhausting to duct
  • Without makeup air, enclosure starves and actual airflow drops

Practical Example: 3D Printer with Variable-Speed Exhaust

A 3D printer enclosure with built-in exhaust fan that varies speed for temperature control:

  1. Connect enclosure exhaust port to 4” branch line with blast gate
  2. Ensure enclosure has filtered air intake
  3. Run main fume blower whenever printing materials requiring outdoor exhaust (ABS, ASA, PETG)
  4. For PLA, built-in filtration with recirculation is usually sufficient (no duct connection needed)
  5. Consider smart relay to auto-start blower when printer begins heating

Flow Balancing for Temperature-Sensitive Equipment

The main blower (400-800 CFM) is sized for the entire system, but a 3D printer enclosure may only need 20-50 CFM for effective fume extraction. Excessive airflow causes problems:

  • Chamber cools faster than heater can compensate
  • Air currents cause warping and layer adhesion issues
  • Impossible to maintain 45-60°C chamber temps needed for ABS/ASA

Flow Control Methods:

MethodHow It WorksProsCons
Partially close blast gateRestrict flow at the branchSimple, no costManual, imprecise
Variable-speed blowerRun main blower at lower speedGood control, already spec’dAffects all branches equally
Inline balancing damperFixed restrictor limits max flowSet once, always rightReduces max flow permanently
Orifice plateMetal plate with sized holeCheap, precise, permanentFixed - can’t adjust
Dedicated small fanSeparate 4” fan (50-100 CFM) for branchIndependent control, perfect sizingExtra cost, complexity

Recommended Approach for 3D Printer Branch:

  1. Use variable-speed main blower - The AC Infinity CLOUDLINE S6 has 10-speed control. Run at speed 2-3 for printer-only use, higher speeds for other stations.

  2. Install inline balancing damper (~$15-25) on printer branch - Dial in maximum flow regardless of main blower speed. Even at full blower, printer branch only pulls what’s needed.

  3. Keep blast gate for on/off isolation - Use balancing damper for flow tuning, blast gate for complete shutoff when not in use.

This provides gentle extraction for temperature-sensitive prints while maintaining full power for other workstations.

Balancing Damper Products:

Systems That Cannot Share Fume Extraction Ductwork

IMPORTANT: Certain exhaust systems are prohibited by code from sharing ductwork with the fume extraction system.

Kitchen Range Hood / Over-Range Microwave Exhaust

Per IRC (International Residential Code) and Michigan Residential Code:

“The duct serving the hood shall have a smooth interior surface, shall be airtight, shall be equipped with a back-draft damper, and shall be independent of all other exhaust systems.”

Kitchen exhaust cannot share ductwork with the fume extraction system because:

  • Code explicitly requires independence
  • Grease from cooking would contaminate fume extraction ductwork
  • Grease + solvent fumes = significant fire hazard
  • Airflow interference affects both systems’ effectiveness
  • Cross-contamination risks (chemical vapors entering kitchen, cooking odors entering shop)

Loft Kitchen Exhaust Plan:

Kitchen is Phase 2/3 (deferred 3–5+ years; see Loft Apartment Conversion Plan). The owner cooks frequently and sears/pan-fries often, and specifically wants real outdoor-vented capture — not a recirculating over-the-range microwave like the main house (which just filters air back into the room and lets odor linger for hours). The plan below is sized for that.

This is a separate system from the roof sewer-gas vent

The only roof penetration is the DWV (sewer-gas) vent stack — see Roof Penetrations. The range hood is an independent gable-wall penetration that does not exist yet and must never tie into the DWV stack, the bath fan, or the shop fume extraction (code requires each to be independent — see above).

Exhaust (range hood) — east gable wall:

  • Type: Ducted updraft hood (wall-mount chimney or canopy). No over-the-range recirculating microwave; no downdraft — both fail at capturing a searing plume.
  • Penetration location: East gable wall (full-height, exterior; range sits on this wall so the duct goes straight through the wall thickness and out a sidewall cap — no roof boot, no long run).
  • Duct size: 6” round, kept 6” the entire way — do not neck down to 4” (a reducer chokes airflow and adds noise).
  • Duct material: Smooth-interior galvanized steel spiral; backdraft damper required; insulated exterior cap (MI cold — prevents backdraft and condensation).
  • CFM: 400–600. Induction throws little ambient heat but still smokes hard when searing cast iron, so capture still matters.
  • Capture geometry > raw CFM: hood ≥ cooktop width (36” hood over a 30” range), deep enough to cover the front burners, mounted 28–36” above the cooktop.
  • Noise: prefer a remote/inline or exterior-mounted blower — high CFM with a fraction of the in-room noise, which matters a lot in an open studio loft.
  • Termination clearances: ≥3 ft from windows, doors, and other vents (incl. the bath exhaust); ≥10 ft from powered air intakes (or 3 ft above).
  • Prevailing wind: West→east, so the east wall is downwind — wind carries the exhaust away from the building. The house is east/southeast; rare east winds could push exhaust back, but windows would be closed then anyway.

Makeup air — west gable wall (upwind):

A hood over 400 CFM requires makeup air under Michigan/IRC M1503.4. Beyond code, a strong fan in a tight, well-insulated loft pulls the space negative, which can backdraft the bath exhaust and is worth a hard look given the gas boiler in the mechanical room below. Two paths:

  • Stay at ~400 CFM with a deep, well-covered hood (often plenty on induction) → dodges the makeup-air mandate.
  • Go 600 CFM with a powered makeup-air damper interlocked with the hood (Broan/Fantech), ideally tempered (raw −5°F air next to the cook is miserable).

Makeup-air intake location: west gable wall (owner decision, 2026-06-23). This is the opposite gable from the hood exhaust (~40’ away) and upwind under the prevailing W→E wind, so the intake can never re-inhale the hood’s grease plume — the cleanest possible separation of intake from exhaust.

  • Routing: carry the makeup-air duct east from the west gable through the kneewall void (the kneewall triangle runs the full 40’ length and is a natural chase) to a discharge near the kitchen. Reserve/pre-run this chase before drywall — see Critical Pre-Insulation Requirements.
  • Sizing: size up for the long run — a passive 6” duct only moves ~150–200 CFM, so a 40’ passive run feeding a 400–600 CFM hood needs 8–10” duct or a powered damper. Match (or slightly exceed) hood CFM.
  • Condensation: the duct carries cold outside air, so no condensation inside it; insulate it where it passes through the conditioned loft so room humidity doesn’t condense on the cold duct surface. In a cold (unconditioned) kneewall triangle, no insulation needed. (If the triangles get conditioned per the Loft Apartment Conversion Plan storage option, insulate the full run.)
  • Discharge: aim the makeup-air register away from where the cook stands, or use a tempered unit, so a cold draft doesn’t hit you at the range.

Crowded-gable note: the east gable may carry the 6” hood exhaust and (if used) a makeup-air provision; the bath 4” exhaust is also east-end. Keep ≥3 ft between any two terminations, and never place a makeup-air intake where it can ingest the hood exhaust (the west-gable intake solves this by construction). The ERV pre-rough’s two penetrations go on opposite walls away from the boiler flue — keep them off the same gable face where practical.

What to lock now vs. what's safely deferred

The exterior duct hole itself is genuinely low-regret to defer — it’s a straight shot through the wall thickness, and the pre-insulation plan already classifies kitchen vent as an add-later, cut-through-finished-siding item. What is not cheap to retrofit, and should be done while the gable is open: (1) solid blocking for the heavy hood, (2) the 240V range circuit + hood circuit, (3) the makeup-air interlock wire + the west-gable→kitchen kneewall chase, and (4) simply reserving the gable location so the mini-split head, a window, or tall cabinets don’t land where the range/hood need to be. See the kitchen-vent items in Critical Pre-Insulation Requirements.

Open variables — confirm on site (kitchen venting):

These two are the only undecided inputs to the venting plan; both are easiest to verify while framing is exposed, and both can move the range/chase layout:

  1. Kitchen’s usable share of the east gable — after the bathroom and stair landing take their bites of the east end, how much full-height gable wall is left for the range + 6” hood duct? This sets whether the range fits on the gable at all, or shifts toward the peninsula.
  2. Clear kneewall path, west gable → kitchen — confirm an unobstructed run for the makeup-air chase through the kneewall void: no attic girder truss (AX 2-ply), blocking, or insulation baffle in the way along the full ~40’ length.

Fallback routing — dip into the garage ceiling below the loft floor:

If the kneewall path is blocked (girder/blocking/insulation conflict), if the conditioned-triangle storage plan claims that space, or if the duct needs a downward grade the kneewall can’t give, the duct can drop through the loft floor and run in the garage ceiling space below, then rise where needed. Constraints to respect:

  • The garage ceiling is the fire separation (5/8” Type X, IRC R302.6). A duct crossing it must keep that separation: min. 26-ga steel, no openings into the garage, firestopped at each penetration (IRC R302.5.2 governs ducts through the garage/dwelling separation).
  • Don’t drill the loft-floor 2×10 joists for a large duct — code caps holes at ~1/3 depth (~3”). Run the duct parallel within a joist bay (an 8” duct fits a 9.25” bay) or surface-mount it exposed below the garage ceiling (the shop aesthetic tolerates exposed duct — simplest, zero joist drilling).
  • Never notch or drill the truss bottom chords (existing project constraint — same rule as the DWV drops).
  • This is the natural place to gain a downward slope for a condensate-draining run; pitch toward an exterior cap or drip leg.

Loft Bathroom Exhaust Plan:

Bathroom planned for east end of loft (between stairs and kitchen). Exhaust routing:

  • Penetration location: East gable wall (separate from kitchen exhaust)
  • Duct size: 4” round (standard bathroom exhaust)
  • Duct material: Insulated flex or rigid duct (insulation prevents condensation in cold weather)
  • Backdraft damper: Required
  • Fan sizing: 50-110 CFM depending on bathroom size (with shower, recommend 80+ CFM)
  • Spacing from kitchen exhaust: At least 3 ft between terminations to prevent cross-contamination

East Gable Wall Layout (two exhaust penetrations):

         East Gable Wall (24' wide)
              looking from outside
    ┌─────────────────────────────────────┐
    │                 /\                  │
    │                /  \                 │
    │    [Bath]    /    \    [Kitchen]    │
    │     vent    /      \     vent       │
    │      ○     /        \      ○        │
    │           /          \              │
    └──────────/────────────\─────────────┘
         ↑ Stairs end          Kitchen end ↑

Both exhausts benefit from:

  • Prevailing west-to-east wind (downwind dispersion)
  • Short duct runs from fixtures
  • Easy access from mechanical room below

Pre-Drywall Recommendation: Rough-frame a 4” opening in the east gable wall for bathroom exhaust. Position closer to the stairs/east edge, maintaining 3 ft spacing from kitchen exhaust penetration.

Note on Heat Pump Dryer: Heat pump dryers do not require external venting - they recirculate air and condense moisture internally. Only a drain line is needed (similar to a dehumidifier). This eliminates the need for a dryer vent penetration.

Other Systems Requiring Separate Exhaust:

  • Dryer vents (if using traditional vented dryer instead of heat pump)
  • HVAC combustion exhaust
  • Radon mitigation (if applicable)

Duct Routing Strategy

Hybrid approach (recommended for this garage):

  • Upstairs: Vertical riser hidden in wall, horizontal branches exposed in loft
  • Downstairs: Entire fume trunk exposed for maximum flexibility

Advantages of exposed ducting:

  • Easy to modify and expand
  • Easy to inspect for leaks
  • Industrial aesthetic fits workshop
  • Easier maintenance access

System B: Heavy-Duty Paint Booth Extraction

Overview

Completely separate system from System A. Handles automotive painting and heavy solvent work.

Specifications

Ducting:

  • Size: 12-24” metal duct
  • Material: Spiral steel, all connections sealed

Blower:

  • Type: Explosion-proof blower (C1D1 or C1D2 rated)
  • CFM: 2,000-4,000+ CFM
  • Motor: Must be rated for flammable atmospheres

Filtration:

  • Intake filters (prevent overspray from leaving building)
  • Exhaust filters (capture paint particles before outdoor discharge)
  • Regular filter replacement schedule

Implementation:

  • Temporary/portable paint booth setup for Corvette restoration
  • Dedicated exhaust fan location pre-planned during framing
  • Can upgrade to permanent booth in future

Paint Booth Options

Option 1: Temporary Portable Booth (~$500-2,000)

  • Portable spray shelter/tent
  • Dedicated exhaust fan
  • Intake filter for makeup air
  • Set up as needed, store when not in use
  • Suitable for occasional automotive painting

Option 2: Semi-Permanent Booth (~$2,000-5,000)

  • Dedicated bay (Bay 1 or Bay 3) with curtains
  • Mounted exhaust fan with filter
  • Makeup air handling
  • More professional results

Option 3: Professional Booth (~$10,000+)

  • Full enclosure with controlled environment
  • Heating for curing
  • Commercial-grade filtration
  • Only if doing regular paint work

Recommendation: Start with Option 1 (temporary portable booth) for Corvette restoration project. Pre-frame exhaust location now to allow future upgrade to Option 2 or 3.

Optimal Duct Materials

Best Choice: Spiral Steel Duct (26-30 gauge)

Why spiral steel:

  • Anti-static (critical for flammable vapors)
  • Fire-safe
  • Smooth airflow (less turbulence than corrugated)
  • Industrial standard for fume extraction
  • Easy to branch and seal
  • Long service life

Branch Fittings

Preferred: Wye Fittings

  • Best airflow characteristics
  • Lowest turbulence
  • Ideal for laser and resin extraction where CFM matters

Acceptable: T-Fittings

  • More compact in tight spaces
  • Slightly higher turbulence
  • OK for soldering or resin printer branches

Materials to Avoid

  • PVC - Static buildup creates ignition hazard
  • Dryer duct - Not rated for fumes, poor airflow
  • Long sections of flex hose - High resistance, turbulence
  • Galvanized in wet applications - Corrosion with some chemicals

Permanent Sealing Method

For concealed ductwork (before drywall), use the industrial triple-seal method:

  1. Slip-fit / crimped duct joint - Mechanical connection
  2. UL 181 Foil HVAC tape - 3M 3340 or 3M 3381
  3. Duct mastic - RCD #6 or Hardcast 181 over seams and screw heads

Once cured, the system is airtight, permanent, and safe for concealed or exposed use.

Pre-Drywall Requirements

CRITICAL: These items must be installed during framing, before insulation and drywall.

Must Install Now (December 2025)

  • 6” vertical fume duct riser (capped) from main floor to loft — stage:: 3

    • Route through utility chase near stairway
    • Cap both ends with metal caps
    • Label clearly: “FUME EXTRACTION - DO NOT CONNECT TO DUST COLLECTION”

  • Frame exhaust penetration location for System B (paint booth) — stage:: 3

    • Gable wall or rear wall location
    • 12-18” opening rough-framed
    • Can install actual exhaust later

  • Electrical stub for fume blower — stage:: 3

    • Junction box in loft ceiling area
    • 20A circuit from panel (see Electrical Planning)
    • Location near planned exhaust penetration

  • 6” kitchen exhaust penetration (capped) in east gable wall — stage:: 3

    • For future stove/over-range microwave exhaust
    • Position to maintain 3 ft clearance from windows
    • East wall is downwind (prevailing west-to-east wind assists dispersion)
    • Cap with metal cap until kitchen installation

  • 4” bathroom exhaust penetration (capped) in east gable wall — stage:: 3

    • For future bathroom ceiling exhaust fan
    • Position closer to stairs/east edge of gable
    • Maintain 3 ft spacing from kitchen exhaust penetration
    • Cap with metal cap until bathroom installation

  • 1-2 empty conduits for future sensors/automation — stage:: 3

    • Air quality sensors
    • Blast gate automation
    • Integration with Home Assistant

  • Ceiling-mounted outlet location for future paint booth fan — stage:: 3

    • Near bay 1 or bay 3 (whichever will be paint area)
    • Consider 240V if using large exhaust fan

Design Principles

  1. All fume systems must exhaust outdoors - Never recirculate
  2. Use blast gates to isolate inactive stations
  3. Keep paint booth extraction separate from hobby fume system
  4. Avoid any PVC in fume-handling paths
  5. Inline/rooftop blowers must be outside the vapor path - Motor not in fume stream
  6. Label all ducting clearly - Distinguish from HVAC and dust collection

Cost Estimates

System A - Hobby Fume Extraction

ComponentEstimated Cost
6” spiral steel duct (50 ft)$150-250
4” branch duct (30 ft)$60-100
Wye fittings, elbows, caps (10 pcs)$80-150
Inline blower (400-600 CFM)$150-300
Blast gates (6×)$60-120
Anti-static flex hose (20 ft)$40-80
Mounting hardware, mastic, tape$50-100
System A Total$590-1,100

System B - Paint Booth Extraction

ComponentEstimated Cost
Temporary portable booth$500-1,500
Explosion-proof exhaust fan$300-800
Intake/exhaust filters$100-200
Ducting and connections$150-300
System B Total (Temporary)$1,050-2,800

Pre-Drywall Rough-In Only

ComponentEstimated Cost
6” vertical riser (10-15 ft)$50-80
End caps and labels$20-30
Mastic and tape$30-50
Electrical rough-in (by electrician)Included in electrical bid
Pre-Drywall Total$100-160

Recommendation: Install pre-drywall rough-in now (~$100-160). Complete System A and System B later when ready for each use case.

Implementation Timeline

Phase 1: Pre-Drywall Rough-In (December 2025 - During Framing)

  • Install 6” vertical riser stub (capped)
  • Frame exhaust penetration for paint booth
  • Install electrical stub for blower
  • Run empty conduits for sensors

Phase 2: System A Completion (After Loft Finish)

  • Install horizontal branch lines in loft
  • Mount inline blower
  • Connect workstation drops with blast gates
  • Test and commission system

Phase 3: System B Paint Booth (Before Corvette Painting)

  • Set up temporary portable booth
  • Install dedicated exhaust fan
  • Set up intake filtration
  • Test airflow and capture efficiency

Actions

Pre-Drywall (Stage 3 - December 2025)

  • Order 6” spiral steel duct for vertical riser (15 ft) — stage:: 3
  • Confirm fume extraction riser location in utility chase with contractor — stage:: 3
  • Mark exhaust penetration location on framing plans — stage:: 3
  • Add 20A fume blower circuit to electrical schedule — stage:: 3

Future (Stage 6+)

  • Complete System A branch installation after loft drywall — stage:: 6
  • Select and install inline blower — stage:: 6
  • Set up temporary paint booth before Corvette bodywork — stage:: 6
  • Install air quality sensors for monitoring — stage:: 6

Procurement

Pre-Drywall Materials

Spiral Steel Duct:

Sealing Materials:

End Caps:

Future System Components

Inline Blowers:

Blast Gates:

Safety Considerations

Fire/Explosion Prevention

  • Never use PVC ducting for solvent fumes
  • Ensure blower motor is outside fume stream
  • Use explosion-proof equipment for paint booth (System B)
  • Ground all metal ductwork to prevent static buildup
  • Keep fire extinguisher (Class B) near painting areas

Health Protection

  • Always use appropriate respirator when working with fumes (P100 with organic vapor cartridge)
  • Fume extraction supplements but does not replace PPE
  • Monitor for symptoms of solvent exposure
  • Ensure adequate makeup air when extraction is running

Makeup Air

  • Fume extraction creates negative pressure in space
  • Must have makeup air path to prevent:
    • Back-drafting of combustion appliances (boiler)
    • Reduced extraction effectiveness
    • Door suction issues
  • Options: Passive vents, powered makeup air, door gap allowance

References

Last Updated: December 2025 Status: Planning - Pre-drywall items critical before framing closes

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